In November, I hosted a group of clients for a 6-day fly-fishing trip in Cayo Largo, Cuba, one of the Caribbean’s most beautiful and outstanding saltwater fishing destinations.
It was a welcome return to paradise, for me and for clients both familiar with the area and those experiencing it for the first time. Our journey began in Havana with a relaxed welcome dinner on Friday evening at the charming 5 Sentidos restaurant, where we enjoyed an excellent meal and the chance to get to know one another.
On Saturday lunchtime, we departed from the Parque Central Hotel and travelled to the Port of Zapesca, where we boarded Avalon Fleet I and set off toward our first mooring in Cayo Largo. During the sail, everyone settled into their cabins, set up their rods, and enjoyed dinner on board before turning in early, eager for our first full day of fishing.
One of the immediate highlights of the trip was the sheer abundance of wildlife we encountered.
As we prepared to board the skiffs for our first day on the water, a pod of dolphins appeared and began swimming playfully around the back of the liveaboard, a magical start to the week.
Throughout the days that followed, we were treated to an extraordinary array of birdlife: elegant flamingos scattered across the shallows, great spirals of frigate birds circling overhead, and an osprey both in flight and later perched proudly on its nest. We spotted Cuban crocodiles basking in the mangroves, iguanas sunning themselves on deserted beaches, and countless other glimpses of the rich and unspoiled wilderness that makes the Canarreos so special.
Early Weather Challenges and First Days on the Flats
We woke to a blanket of cloud and light rain, which is every saltwater fisher’s nightmare. After a decidedly wet first skiff ride, spirits lifted as we eased into stalking the flats and mangroves for bonefish. Despite the lack of sunshine, everyone caught fish thanks to perseverance and the unwavering skill of our guides.
Returning to the liveaboard to be greeted by a smiling hostess offering mojitos and cold towels was a welcome reward after a testing start. Stories began to flow immediately as we tucked into pizza, cocktails, beers, and, of course, cups of Yorkshire Tea—always first on the packing list!
After relaxing and recounting the day’s adventures, we freshened up for dinner. The food on board was exceptional, and it remains a mystery how the crew manages to produce such impressive meals from a small galley with limited supplies. We enjoyed delicious soups, freshly caught lobster and fish, rice dishes, indulgent desserts, and an abundance of fresh fruit.
Each morning, we gathered for early coffee on the vast padded stern seat, watching the sun rise and hoping for an improvement in the weather. Soon enough, our prayers were answered: the sun appeared and stayed with us for the rest of the week. With sunshine, however, came wind—but everyone adapted, refining their casting or relying on the guides’ expert positioning of the skiffs, sometimes seemingly to prevent us from wearing our own flies!
The bonefishing was outstanding, and this truly is the place to target fish of exceptional size. Nothing under 3lbs was landed, and many fish in the 7–8lb range were brought to hand. They fought with real power, and on countless occasions we were well into our backing before the battle was over. Permit numbers in the Canarreos region were equally impressive; we encountered both singles and large groups. A few of the group were fortunate enough to cast to them, sending adrenaline and blood pressure soaring—followed invariably by animated tales of “the one that got away.”
Tarpon Encounters and Final Days in the Canarreos
For some, tarpon were the main attraction, and they devoted much of their time to stalking the mangroves and casting into the deep channels where these spectacular fish often hold. Plenty were jumped and lost—as is often the case with tarpon—but a handful stayed connected despite their athletic aerial displays. A highlight of the week was a gleaming 35lb beauty, landed after an energetic and unforgettable fight.
Throughout the trip, the service was exceptional. The captain, chef, hostess, and crew looked after us wonderfully, and the guides were as enthusiastic, knowledgeable, and hardworking as ever. Their skill and positivity played a huge role in the week’s success, and we were genuinely sad to leave both the people and the stunning Canarreos archipelago as we made our way back to Havana.
Returning to the Parque Central Hotel, we spent our final day exploring the city, enjoying lunch, and relaxing by the rooftop pool before heading to the airport for our journey home. November truly is a fantastic time to fish in Cuba—warm but comfortable weather, excellent sport, and that essential boost of winter-defying vitamin D we all need to see us through the colder months.
If you would like to make Cuba your next saltwater fishing destination, contact me by emailing louise@roxtons.com.
